The delicate curl of a flower, the intriguing angle of a building, or the wings of a dragonfly. The whimsy of inspiration can weaves its magic from virtually anywhere – all you need do is open your eyes to see it. French designer of haute couture eyewear Jean-Francois Rey takes his inspiration whenever and wherever it strikes. Designing eyewear for style savants with “an open mind and inquisitive approach to life”, he and his wife Joëlle have taken the concept of spectacles to an entirely new spectrum. The intricate designs of their J.F. Rey and Boz eyewear ranges combine high-end Italian acetate and stainless steel, with semi-precious stones such as tiger-eye, pink opal, haematite and white agate. Through their irreverence, innovation, and penchant for bucking fashion trends, the duo have gained a devoted following around the world. And it all began with a chance encounter with designer Issey Miyake.
What was your childhood dream?
I dreamed of becoming a diplomat or mediator. I studied law and political science because I was really interested in the history of civilisations.
When did you first begin designing eyewear?
I started designing and developing glasses when I was quite young – around 17 or 18. At the time my father had a factory that made glasses – acetate frames in particular. I would spend my holidays and spare time there in the development area and came up with different designs
of my own. But I never really thought about working in the industry. When I finished my studies, I ended up working for a French fashion design company marketing them to Japan, Hong Kong and the Far East. I had been doing it for a few years when I met Issey Miyake and we became quite good friends. One day he said to me: ‘I want to develop optical frames and sunglasses – could you recommend someone who could help me?’ And I told him: ‘Well, maybe I can help you.’ And that was it; we went ahead and did it. I tried to introduce the line to the European market, but it was around 1980 and Issey Miyake wasn’t very well known at that time. In addition to that line, I made another collection, IDC,which was quite innovative, and I worked on it until 1990. I then started a new company in 1995 and called it J.F. Rey.
How do you translate your inspirations into designing a pair of glasses?
There are two ways, I think. Sometimes you transfer details that you see around you in nature, or in a city, and you try to adapt it into a small object. Or sometimes you just have a technical idea and from that you might develop a special design. Often you can draw something and it’s a nice shape, but it doesn’t work technically. You have to make drawings and design work in a technical way, and think about what happens backstage in the factory – how you can make form and function work together. That could be a headache for some people because they only focus
on making an interesting shape, but they don’t care about making something work. But that’s not enough, especially for the kind of products we make. It’s not like when you make a nice sculpture – with that you can just put it next to your furniture and that’s it. Because a customer is wearing your glasses everyday, it needs to be high quality, light and comfortable.
How do you think glasses can bring out someone’s personality?
I think they can be a form of self-expression for someone and can really push their personality. When someone is wearing glasses, they can often take on a personality that is completely different. It means that optometrists need to know how to bring out someone’s inner personality.
Are there particular cultures that have embraced your designs more than others?
Yes, at a certain stage I was quite successful in Asia, but our collection now is quite broad. Basically, about 40–50% of the collection can be sold globally, and then there are certain colours that are particularly popular in places like Scandinavia, and other colours in Italy. In Japan, there are a lot of men who are now buying glasses from the feminine collection!
Do you think that glasses are an important part of fashion or rather that they should be considered separately from it?
They’re an important part of fashion for sure. When you wear optical frames, it’s a part of your face. I don’t really try to follow the current fashion trends. I leave that to the big brands that are more marketing oriented and always try to catch the zeitgeist of the immediate season. In our case, obviously we don’t want to be completely out of fashion but we want to be following our own path rather than trends. If I were designing for Fendi, Givenchy or Dior, I would have to be more consciously on-trend, especially with sunglasses.
Why do you think people choose J.F. Rey glasses over those brands?
Some customers are following the latest trends, but many of our customers will come back to us each season to buy new frames. That’s why it’s important to sell to the final customers rather than to the optical stores. We have a lot of people re-ordering from us. That’s the critical thing – while it’s important to create something nice, when I’m walking down the street in Europe or I’m in an airport somewhere and I see the people wearing my designs, it makes me so happy and proud.
What has been the greatest challenge you have had to overcome?
Trying to continually produce fresh ideas is sometimes difficult but, honestly, the greatest difficulties are in managing people and the business in general. In terms of developing new designs after 30 years in the business – there’s always something new to be created, whether it’s mixing materials or whatever. And then there are some ideas that were not possible to do when we first thought of them because of a lack
of technology, but now they are.
What is your greatest achievement?
To be able to be more relaxed now. In my business before J.F Rey it was very fast-paced and we didn’t have the financial space. It was very hard to maintain the business. So with J.F. Rey, I started the business very slowly and very carefully, trying to establish very strong bases. Sometimes you just have to learn things in life from experience and do them better the second time.
Who inspires you?
I am still inspired by Issey Miyake and his creations. He is almost retired now but he is still creating new textiles. As for other fashion designers, I think Yves Saint Laurent was very good, and Karl Lagerfeld is excellent, especially with Chanel.
What inspires you?
I am inspired by forms in nature, but ecology is everywhere now, and it’s often very fake. Architecture also inspires me. We are working at the moment to revisit a design from the 1980s but with a different spin on it. Another concept we are working on is one where you can change the temple on your glasses.
Where do you find peace in life?
I like to walk in the mountains in the French Alps but then I also like being in big cities like New York, Tokyo and Paris. I love all the old buildings and villages in Italy – there’s so much history there.
What are your words of wisdom?
Open your eyes.
Interview by Mikki Brammer.
